I was recently talking with a good friend about those special holiday tops that we have hanging in our closet. They come out once a year and are never to be seen again until the following year. My favorite new TÉLIO plaid is the Nirvana Plaid style 34595 colour 03. I saw this as the perfect solution to my holiday top dilemma. It’s transitional and can be worn dressy or casual!
The truth is, not all DIY projects work out perfectly the first time around. So, why not share some of the trials and errors that occurred with this project?
Firstly, the original piece of fabric that I was working with was from the beginning of a roll, so it was a little bit warped. Even though I knew the plaid would not match perfectly, I decided to proceed with cutting and hope for the best! Second problem – I reworked a basic, darted bodice by cutting it at the waistline and flaring the bottom portion to form the peplum. It wasn’t until my final fitting that I noticed a lack of fullness in the flare of the peplum! Finally, I used the same outer fabric for the facing as well. Once you add your interfacing and seam thickness, it quickly started to look like a Star Trek costume in the shoulder area. In my final fitting of this festive top, I had a not too festive expression on my face.
I would normally pout and whine and never again attempt to make this top, but I just couldn’t allow myself to feel defeated by this project. A do over was in order and the solutions were easy: Don’t work with a piece of fabric from the beginning or end of the roll, find a lighter fabric for the facing and rework my pattern pieces.
What you will need:
1. Plaid Fabric- Purchase desired finished length of torso. I only needed 1m (1.2 yards).
2. 0.25m/ ¼ yard of lining (facing)
3. 0.25m/ ¼ yard of fusible interfacing
4. Zipper – (Only if you’re using a woven fabric with minimal to no stretch.) 35cm long.
5. Thread to match.
6. Commercial Sewing pattern to be modified to your style/fit needs. Mine was similar to this one here.
7. 1 straight Ruler
8. 1 Pencil
9. A few pieces of paper or brown kraft paper to redraw/draft the fullness in your peplum
Step 1: Rework your existing pattern by drawing a line at the waistline and then cutting across it. Add seam allowance to the upper bodice at the waistline. Then use the slash and spread technique to get the desired fullness in your peplum. Redraw your hem and waistline and add seam allowance where applicable. Use the tape to secure your pattern pieces to the paper underneath.
Step 2: Mark the lines on your pattern piece where the plaid/stripes match up to ensure they’ll be exact before pinning. Cut your pieces out.
Step 3: Follow your pattern directions to sew the upper bodice together.
Step 4: Prepare the peplum by sewing the side seams together and then attach to the completed upper bodice portion. Hem the peplum.
Voila! Now you can enjoy a glass of vino after all that work.
If reworking a pattern seems too complicated, there are many commercial patterns available to you with this style already drafted. You can purchase this one online here or download a printable version here.
Another great option is reworking an existing top in your closet. Here is the perfect DIY tutorial online!